Caveat Emptor - Do your research, due diligence pays off.
We have, over the years, come to notice some very obvious signs of poor or inaccurate restorations, and many cars heralded as "original" when they are quite clearly not. For anyone in the market for a 300SL Gullwing or Roadster, do your research carefully! The 300SL community, including collectors, restorers, repairers, brokers and dealers, is very small. So ask around, ask for references, and ask more than one person - the 300SL has made a lot of unscrupulous sellers and brokers a lot of money over the years. Do not let yourself fall victim to what appears to be "a really good deal." It is often too good to be true, and in my experience you do get what you pay for with the 300SL.
Do not buy a car and hope to restore it yourself and hope to turn a profit. It is easy to be tempted to spend $400.000 USD or less for a car that has not been restored and to want to do the work yourself. The value of these cars depends on accuracy and quality. It would be like buying a damaged painting and trying to restore it yourself. Even if you yourself are an artist, you are likely not an expert in conservation or restoration. Even an older restoration of say 10-20 years, might set you back tens of thousands in minor repairs if you are lucky, and in some cases require a full restoration. If the car you are buying was restored, find out who by and look at other examples of their work. Go and see the car if possible, drive it, maybe bring along someone who knows the mechanical and cosmetic details of the 300SL inside and out. Ask questions about the restoration, get all the details you can, but first spend some time learning about the car so you know what to ask and what you are looking at. How long has the car sat since restoration? What did the previous owner do with the car? Did the car ever have a major accident? Is it a matching numbers car? What was rebuilt during the restoration? Was it a full mechanical and cosmetic restoration? Did they replace the writing harness? When painted, was the car stripped to bare metal, picked and filed, was the body repaired or simply patched?
One of the best references is "Gullwing: The Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Coupé" by Anthony Pritchard, unfortunately it was a limited run of 1000 copies (roughly how many Gullwings are presumed to exist today). If you can get your hands on a copy or have already, then consider yourself lucky. I agree with much of what is said in their section on restorations and they are very thorough in describing the production Gullwing, piece by piece.
Numbers: (according to factory build records, which may not be precise)
Gullwing: (1,400 total production cars, including 29 lightweight alloy body models)
- 1952: 10 (Chassis: 194.010 000001 to 000010)
- 1953: 1 (Chassis: 194.010 000011)
- 1954: 146 (Chassis: 198.040 4500010 to 4500167)
- 1955: 867 (Chassis: 198.040 5500022 to 5500877, including 25 alloy models and 1 fibre-glass prototype)
- 1956: 311 (Chassis: 198.040 6500010 to 6500317, including 4 alloy models)
- 1957: 76 (Chassis: 198.040 7500007 to 00079)
- 1956: 1 (one of a rumoured five prototype Roadsters; the only one made in 1956)
- 1957: 618
- 1958: 267
- 1959: 200
- 1960: 241
- 1961: 256
- 1962: 182
- 1963: 91
- 1964: 3
Mercedes-Benz produced a total of 29 lightweight alloy body Gullwings during the production years 1955 and 1956. The standard steel body Gullwings had alloy doors, hood, trunk lid, and rocker panels. In addition to an all alloy body, the lightweight models had racing wheels with Rudge-Whitworth centre-lock hubs and spinners (commonly known as "Rudge wheels"), high-life camshaft, and plastic rear and side windows. They cost quite a bit more than the standard Gullwing when sold by the factory and today are worth over twice as much as a steel body car, going for $1.1M to $1.5M USD). A prototype 300SL will sell for similar sums or much more. We have restored several alloy body cars over the years and many people believe that all 29 are still on the road (so check your chassis plate for a 198.043).
Identification Plates:
The paint, motor and chassis plates, found under the hood, are the best place to start your research. The main chassis/model/typ plate is on the left side of the engine firewall. A second chassis plate and often a stamping is found on the left side front chassis leg close to the tubular transverse member. The paint number plate is located on the right side of the engine firewall with the prefix "DB" for Daimler-Benz. Below this is a common place to find the stamped chassis number (but not on some early cars). The motor number is stamped into the right hand side of the cylinder block, and repeated on the alloy plate attached below.
Chassis number prefix:
- 300SL / 194 010: Racing/Works SL
- 300SL / 198 040: Production Gullwing
- 300SL / 198 042: Production Roadster
- 300SL / 198 043: Alloy Body Gullwing

If the number plates match the stamped numbers then you should have a matching car. The only way to cross-reference this is to look at the factory build sheets, which are available to the owner of the car in question. You can order them from the factory if you do not already have the sheet. Notice the type of screws used in the alloy plates on the firewall, these are often incorrect and should be Slotted (flat) screws, not Phillips (cross) or Robertson (square) headed screws. Cars with incorrect screws have, evidently, been restored, or worked on, by a shop that is not obsessed with minor, correct details. For example on this paint plate:

Exterior and Interior:
The Gullwing came standard in Metallic silver grey (paint code DB 180), with LI: Blue-checked (plaid) gaberdine combined with blue Tex-leather, lined with grey cloth, and with blue bouclé carpet.
*Tex-leather is the MB version of vinyl. You could have real leather with the checked gaberdine at an extra cost.
*Bouclé describes the looped yarn threads in the carpet.
MB had three standard upholstery options including LI described above. LII: red-checked gaberdine, cream Tex-leather, light-beige cloth lining, and beige bouclé carpet. LIII: green-checked gaberdine, green Tex-leather, green-grey cloth lining, and green bouclé carpet.
The official leather options, at a cost, were: Red (1079), Black (953), Green (1073), Blue (333), Cream (1060), White (1097), Steel blue (979), and Light grey (955).
The optional exterior paint colours, at a cost, were: Graphite grey (DB 190), Blue grey (DB 166), White grey (DB 158), Ivory (DB 608), Fire engine red (DB 534), Metallic strawberry red (DB 543), Black (DB 40), White (DB 50), and Medium blue (DB 334).
Pritchard notes that "many cars were sold in colours and trims outside of the official list" (p. 136). For example, Mercedes-Benz sold approximately 64 Gullwings with Light (silver) blue metallic paint (DB 353), which was not an official 300SL paint option (p. 138). Those who bought a Gullwing or Roadster from the factory had access to the whole range of paint colours available in a given year.
These are some additional colours that I have seen (probably many more):
Interior: Burgundy leather.
Exterior: Light silver metallic (DB 274), Sea green (DB 824) or Moss green (DB 834), Dark grey (DB 164), Dark blue, and Light yellow.
Mirrors:
The wing mirror was an option on the Gullwing. They never had two mirrors and many owners today have incorrectly installed one Roadster mirror or worse, a pair of Roadster mirrors because they cost less and are easier to find. This is often overlooked at concours, but in my opinion, ruins the aesthetic of the Gullwing.
Wheels and Tires (or Tyres):
4. Painted Rudge knock-off wheels on a Gullwing:
5. Painted Rudge knock-off wheels on a Roadster:
6. Chromed Rudge wheel in Gullwing trunk:
7. Other examples of wheels, painted and/or in polished chrome:
The standard wheel came in alloy or steel, both had steel centres which are in most cases painted, although I have seen all chrome standard wheels. This was not how they came from the factory. Mercedes-Benz sold all the standard wheel cars with painted centres and rims, see examples above in images 2 and 3. Factory correct examples of Rudge wheels are in images 1,4, and 5; examples of polished chrome Rudge wheels are in images 6 and 7.
Mercedes-Benz fitted the 300SL with 6.5/6.7 x 15 Continental cross-ply tires; a few had Dunlop racing tires, but it was not an option. You can show your car with old tires, especially if you have some Continentals that still hold air, however you should not drive on tires older than 10 years, especially if you drive at high speeds. Today, most people recommend and use the Michelin XWX 185 x 15 tires (195 x 15 with 5 inch rims). However, we recommend and use the Pirelli P4000 VR rated SuperTour tires, which look very much like the classic Continental when on, give a comfortable ride, and are rated to over 145 mph.
In the above set of photos notice the placement of decal, the number of decals, the type of paint used in the engine bay and on the motor, the types of hose clamps and cables, the texture of the intake manifold and general orientation of parts. The decals are not really a concern because you can get them today. However, they are often positioned in the wrong spot. The two most common mistakes with restorations are the type of paint used and the texture of the intake manifold. In the photos above, you will see a matte black paint on the engine bay and the same on the motor itself, and a textured, un-polished intake manifold; those are correct to factory specifications. Compare the above photographs to the set below. Also notice in the set below, which is also of a Roadster, that Gullwing hand-fasteners are used on the case instead of tool-fastened ones (see above for an example of the Roadster case, and the third set of photographs of Gullwing motors to see the difference).
The above photographs are of three restored Gullwing engine bays illustrate the two commonly made restoration mistakes discussed above with the Roadster examples. Note the middle photograph shows both a glossy paint on the motor and the engine bay (which also means the undercarriage) and a highly polished intake manifold. Both of these errors are not easily correctable. You would have to take the car apart, strip it, and repaint it with a matte finish to correct the paint; once an intake manifold is polished, you can never bring back the former texture. Steering Wheels:
The wooden Nardi wheel, not a factory option, it was an aftermarket addition:
The MB Grand Prix wheel, not a factory option, but an authentic and expensive period addition:
The Nardi wheel, although nice to look at, is a nuisance when driving because it hides many of the gages. I find the standard wheel with the horn very attractive in the Roadster, while the Grand Prix wheel looks very good in a Gullwing, especially this early model with goose-neck shifter (like the prototype and race cars).
Fitted Luggage:

Stitching, head-liner, seats, and radios:
It is often hard to tell a good interior from photographs, especially low resolution ones. To be contined...









Prices Today:
As of October 2009:
Lowest: 395,000 USD (Copley Motorcars, USA)
Highest: 905,000 USD (Oakfields, UK)
| Average | $642,535 | 436,760 € | |
| Roadster | 19 | $609,270 | 414,148 € |
| Gullwing | 9 | $731,243 | 497,058 € |














